As we bid farewell to the last decade, I took a moment to re-cap the 'hits and misses' of recent seasons in fashion. I know by now a lot of magazines and TV shows have covered this, but it has been addressed from a purely trend-centered perspective. That is, what's in, what's not and what's that? But I thought to reflect not so much on what we were wearing, but more on what it means.
The last few seasons have seen have seen the reinvention of the 30's, 40's and 50's by Christian Dior, Lanvin, Dolce and Gabbana, Zac Posen and Balenciaga. Marc Jacobs, Gucci and Sonia Rykeil have taken us back to the 80's and Rick Owens and Cristophe Decarnin revived the glamorous side of rock and roll and brought back the herione chic.
However, although we've seen many come-backs, a reinvention of trends gone-by, there lays with in a fundamental difference which sets these designers collections apart. Of course there are obvious upgrades made to keep these trends modern and marketable, such as shorter hems and more accessible materials. But aside from technical updates, there still remains that something else, that has been able to sustain the strong shoulder, sequins, studs, acid wash and metallics, and I feel that it is much beyond cut, colour, fabric or trend.
What is considered fashionable has moved beyond mere garments, and shifted its focus on size. Size zero has never been more fashionable, and I feel is the key to why some of the more cringe-worthy trends of yesteryear have sustained such popularity. Fashion has become celebrity, more so than ever, and models are now our silver screen starlets. Designer's such as Alexander Wang have popularised the MOD look (Model off duty), and what is desired is not just shorter hemlines, but also smaller waist lines. Trends are no longer limited to hairstyles or handbags but have evolved to include specific sizing. So I wonder, is this just fashion branching it or has it gone too far? Or has anorex-chic always been around, and now people have grown to accept it. Inevitably question should arise about what kind of an impact this would have on the fashion audience? What is this saying about our expectation on beauty? Moreover, what I find more significant, from what influence do these trends arise? Is it the designers? Is it the buyers? Is it the media? Does fashion dictate people or vice versa?
Yes, it is upon an inividuals personal choice to follow or reject trends, but who's choice is it to make trends available? Designers. So do we blame designers for creating unhealthy and unrelaistic ideals for men and women?
My answer is no. Designers create what they feel is aesthetically pleasing, what is fashionable, and people can choose to accpet or reject their vision. It is impossible to blame either side as they are hand in hand. One cannot exist without the other. Designers require an audience, moreover a market to sell to, and the market responds to what they have to offer.
Size zero has come about to be in vogue due to a collective agreement made by designers and the public market. They have shown, we have accepted.
The must have accessory of the noughties is the nought size label. The questions that remains is, as with all trends from shoulder pads to biker jackets, how long will it last?
January 12, 2010
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